Glasgow’s Jazz Scene
January 21st, 2010
For many living south of the Watford gap, Glasgow is akin to Helmand Province - where stabbings, heart disease and sectarianism are enjoyable past times. Indeed, cockney crime lord Reggie Kray once quipped, “I’ve seen more violence in Glasgow in one weekend than in a month in London”. In reality, Glasgow is now an affable cosmopolitan city that has, for the last few decades, been dragging itself out of a PR quagmire. Yet, despite this new urbane persona, few visitors would equate Glasgow with a sophisticated jazz scene. Indeed, you would be more inclined to visit Edinburgh - its cultured nemesis - to hear some Thelonious Monk. But if you peel away the pseudo-veneer of deep fried mars bars and Buckfast, you will uncover a sub culture of jazz flourishing in this beautiful city.
If you’re ever in Glasgae for a long weekend, saunter down to the following venues to see the best live jazz on offer:
78
If Richard Briers and Felicity Kendal from “The Good Life” ever opened a bar, it would be a replica of the 78. Specialising in vegan cuisine and organic ales, this is a new age tavern where tie-dyes munch on spicy falafel and sip cloudy cider. Every Sunday afternoon this chic commune is home to some of the best young jazz artists in Scotland – Tom Gibbs (Piano), Euan Burton (bass) and Stuart Brown (drums).
Heavily influenced by jazz modernists’ Herbie Hancock and Wayne Shorter, the trio blaze wildly over the post bop canon - fusing Rhodes piano with an acoustic double bass and drums. Their sound is fresh and exciting, but tastefully demure in its delivery. You’ll find 78 on Kelvinhaugh street, half-way between Glasgow city centre and the West End, in an ethnic hub choked with new world restaurants.
Oran Mor
Oran Mor is situated in the bohemian West End of Glasgow. Formerly a derelict bethel, it was refurbished into an entertainment complex in 2004, and now showcases plays, live music and Scottish cuisine. In the brasserie you will find the Michael Dean’s Quintet, cloaked in the tapestries and stained glass windows of yesteryear. Deans is a patriarch of the West End jazz scene; previously enjoying a lengthy residency at Cottiers bar in Hyndland, and a stint at Ronnie Scotts in London.
The saxophonist loves the baby boomer jazz of the 1950s/60s, and his band blast out seminal tracks from this era - such as John Coltrane’s “Blue Train” and McCoy Tyner’s “Passion Dance”. Deans is somewhat of a Miles Davis style mentor; his line-up a revolving door of University jazz students, or musicians in the fledging stages of their career. This youthful vim energises the quintet, propelling it above other supine ensembles.
So next time you’re in the West End mosey on down to Oran Mor for Sunday brunch, and watch Mickey Deans prowl the stage, arch his back, puffing his cheeks into sacks of lava.
Brel
Saturday afternoons in Glasgow revolve around soccer, with thousands of Glaswegians pouring through the city, every weekend, to see their beloved Celtic or Rangers. For those not so enamoured with the beautiful game, there is a musical life raft located in Brel bar, which hosts a free jazz matinee every Saturday. Brel is a Belgian beer café, and boasts a mammoth collection of bottled beers, and Benelux style cuisine. It is nestled in Ashton lane; a charming vista which has become a mecca for bars and restaurants in Glasgow’s West End.
At the rear of Brel in an austere conservatory, you will find jazz musicians huddled together on a tiny stage. They’re typically local combos playing a mix of post-war jazz; entertaining Brel’s patrons - a bevy of chic souses, students and 30-somethings.
If you fancy a bite to eat then get the mussels - they’re delicious.
Corinthian
It’s the witching hour, yours eyes are glazed, and you should really toddle home. But, swaying at the taxi rank, the muted ivories drift through the night air, luring you back to the optics and beer pumps. Next stop the Corinthian.
Located on the fringes of George Square, the Corinthian is in the heart of Glasgow’s city centre. Formerly the Union bank of Scotland, it is a majestic A-listed building that has been exquisitely refurbished. To hear some jazz head for the piano lounge: a cosy oasis littered with leather armchairs, oil paintings and velvet drapes. Every night, after 11pm, the house pianist plays a consoling mix of jazz standards and contemporary covers. So ease back into a Chesterfield sofa, sip a single malt and wallow in the charm of “’Round Midnight” - a perfect end to the evening.



